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Nice to Meet You:
Ensuring Positive First Encounters Between Dogs

Ren Volpe, November 01 2024
One dog getting too close to another, and the second dog pushing them away.
One dog getting too close to another, and the second dog pushing them away, photo by Vidak on Unsplash

Introducing dogs to one another for the first time is a pivotal moment, especially if they’ll be living together or interacting regularly. First impressions can set the tone for future relationships, whether you're adopting a new dog, fostering a dog, or simply visiting a friend or family member with a dog. A bad introduction can lead to lasting negative associations, while a well-managed meeting can foster a positive relationship between dogs.

Without proper guidance, introductions between new dogs can quickly become overwhelming and stressful for both dogs, leading to potential future conflict. Fortunately, with the right strategies, you can create a calm, neutral environment for dogs to meet and form positive associations.

Meet on Neutral Territory

The front door is a hot spot for many dogs. An unknown dog suddenly appearing can put even the friendliest dog on edge, especially if they react strongly to the doorbell or knocking. The most important thing is to meet on neutral ground - preferably away from the house, backyard, or neighborhood where a dog may feel territorial. Neutral territory is a place neither dog has claimed as their own, where they can meet without feeling the need to defend their space.

Go for a Parallel Walk

Parallel walks are an excellent way to introduce new dogs and help them feel comfortable with each other. Meeting head-on can be overwhelming, but parallel walks help redirect their attention to other things, like sniffing and movement.

Find a wide, open space like a park or quiet street. Start with the dogs far apart - at least 30 feet, though some dogs may need even more distance - so that neither reacts to the other. This initial spacing is essential so begin as far apart as necessary based on the dogs' temperaments. If one dog tends to be nervous, you may even want to walk on opposite sides of the street.

Both dogs should be on a leash. To help build positive associations, reward each dog with a treat every time they look at the other dog. Remember to keep walking and avoid letting the dogs stop and stare at each other.

Gradually reduce the distance between the dogs, but only if neither shows discomfort. Keep walking parallel and continue giving treats when they glance at each other. If they remain relaxed, you may walk close enough to chat with the other handler while keeping the dogs on the outside of their respective person.

Once both dogs are calm and somewhat disinterested in each other, allow them to sniff each other briefly - just for the count of three. Then, with an upbeat "Let's go!" and another treat, continue your parallel walking. As the walk progresses, allow the dogs to greet for longer intervals. Hold the leashes loose and high so they can sniff and circle without getting tangled.

Do not yell or punish if either dog reacts strongly, whether they are overly excited or if they growl, bark, or lunge at the other dog. Dogs learn by associating events with emotional and physical responses. If a dog meets another dog for the first time and is corrected with a leash jerk, harsh words, or other forms of punishment, they may not understand that the correction is meant to stop a specific behavior, like barking or pulling. Instead, they are more likely to associate the punishment with the other dog's presence.

Narrating new dog greetings with cheerful, happy talk can help both the dog and the handler, especially if you are nervous about the interaction. Instead of tightening the leash and holding your breath, talk to your dog in an upbeat but casual manner to normalize the situation, even if you are just acting the part.

Take It Slow and Keep the Leashes Loose

If the dogs are social and friendly, this process can take just a few minutes. But if either dog is anxious, shy, or reactive, you may need several walks before they can greet each other calmly. A parallel walk shouldn't be stressful or exciting. If either dog is struggling, increase the distance between them. You can't rush this process. Some dogs may need longer walks or more than one session before they're comfortable.

As much as possible, keep the leashes loose. Short, tight leashes that restrain the dog can cause issues because the inability to move away or avoid the other dog can lead to defensiveness and fear. The leash prevents flight - in this case avoiding or backing away - so your dog is left with the only fight option: growling, snapping or making a lot of noise in hopes that the scary thing will move away.

Tight leashes are especially difficult for dogs who get frustrated when they cannot greet another dog. If either dog is excited to meet and is straining on the leash, move further away and keep walking. If either leash is taut, you are too close. The goal is a calm greeting without a lot of fanfare.

Watch the Dogs' Body Language

Understanding subtle signs of anxiety or discomfort can help you decide when to move further away or interrupt a greeting. Watch for these stress signals:

  • Lip licking or tongue darting when no food is present
  • Yawning when not tired
  • Freezing
  • Moving slowly
  • Lifting a paw tentatively
  • Sniffing the ground or scratching
  • Averting the gaze or turning the head away
  • Whites of the eyes showing or brow furrowed
  • Tucked tail
  • Refusing treats or taking them tentatively
  • Stress panting
  • Stiff body
  • Raised hackles
  • Whining, barking, or growling

If you notice any or some of these signs, give the dogs more space and slow things down.

Co-Existing and Sharing Space Indoors

Once both dogs have met and are comfortable with each other on a walk, you can begin to take the party inside. Beforehand, remove all toys and chews until you know that neither dog resource guards. You may want the guest dog to enter the home first to avoid front door territorialism.

For dogs staying overnight, make sure the visiting dog has their own bed. Feed the dogs separately, and consider using baby gates when you can't monitor them.

Never force the dogs to work it out on their own. Step in if one dog seems uncomfortable, and don't put an older dog in a position where they feel it is necessary to correct a younger or more rambunctious dog. Do not scold an older dog for growling at a puppy (read more about why you should not punish a growl). Watch for signs that it's time for a break and allow older dogs to retreat to another part of the house if they need space.

Always monitor play between the dogs and interrupt when play gets too rough or one dog seems more enthusiastic than the other. For more tips, watch this excellent video that will help you recognize appropriate dog play.

Whether introducing dogs for a brief visit or preparing them to live together, being proactive can prevent conflict. Set the stage by meeting on neutral territory, going on parallel walks, paying close attention to body language, and using treats to create positive associations with each other. With forethought and planning, you can lay the foundation for a harmonious relationship between your dog and their new pal, whether it’s a casual playmate or a permanent addition to your home.

About the author:
Ren Volpe is a Professional Dog Trainer and a Certified Behavior Consultant. She is also the crazy dog lady behind GoDogPro, a new online service that matches dog owners with force-free dog professionals godogpro.com