Reacting to Reactivity:
What to Do When Your Dog Freaks Out

If you have a reactive dog, you’ve likely experienced moments of being frozen in place, unsure how to respond to a barky-lungy fit. You might find yourself cursing the trigger of their outburst or feeling discouraged and frustrated that your dog is again causing an embarrassing public ruckus.

This article is not about how to fix your dog’s reactivity but rather what to do (and not do) when your dog loses control. You need a plan for when things go south because they inevitably will, despite your best intentions. Life is unpredictable, and we can’t control all the upsetting things out there. Sometimes unexpected events occur, whether it’s an off-leash dog intent on interacting, a tall drunken stranger appearing suddenly, or a thundering herd of hill-bombing skateboarders. There will be times when you and your dog are both caught off guard.

All living things react to their environment constantly. Behavior always has a purpose, and in nature, there is no such thing as "bad behavior." In fact, behavior is often a form of communication, and a reactive dog’s intense response is an attempt to change or control the situation. The barky-lungy behavior is their attempt to act on their environment, to stay safe, and to find relief. Your dog is not giving you a hard time; they are having a hard time. Freaking out is no fun.

In dogs, the term "reactivity" refers to a dramatic and exaggerated response to something that - to us humans - seems harmless. We know that the mailman or the Chihuahua across the street isn’t a threat, but your dog doesn’t understand this. When your dog shows they are scared or upset, believe them, even if their reaction seems nonsensical. An outsized reaction is their way of telling you they need something in the environment to change. Your dog needs your help.

If your dog barks and lunges when seeing other dogs (or strangers, skateboards, runners, children, etc.), this is usually a combination of fear and/or over-arousal, rather than actual aggression. While your dog’s behavior might have multiple underlying causes, for brevity's sake, reactivity can be loosely broken down into a few general categories.

• Frustration Reactivity. Dogs who are highly social and love to interact with other dogs and people may respond with whining, pulling, jumping, barking, or lunging when leashed or behind a barrier like a fence or a window. These dogs are typically pro-social and are friendly when off-leash but become frustrated at being denied the chance to greet or play.
• Defensive Reactivity. Fearful or anxious dogs react by barking and lunging in an attempt to get the scary thing to go away. Often, they are straining on the leash in what looks like an attempt to get closer to the offending stimulus, which seems counterintuitive. For all animals, flight is a natural reaction to fear so you may wonder why they don’t just walk away. But if your dog is restrained by a leash or in a confined area, they are essentially captive. They cannot flee so the only option available is to make a big noisy show to get the scary thing to go away (sometimes, the best defense is a good offense). Some dogs will also pull toward the scary thing because they want more information. You might be deathly afraid of snakes but still feel compelled to look closer to make sure the snake isn’t venomous.
• Sudden Environmental Change (SEC). As the name implies, this type of reactivity occurs when a dog is startled and reacts to a sudden change in their environment, such as a new person appearing or a guest standing up or moving quickly. For instance, your dog may be fine on a crowded sidewalk but will react if a person appears unexpectedly on a quiet street.
• Resource Guarding. Resource guarding occurs when a dog growls, snaps, bites, or fights to keep another person or dog away from something they perceive as valuable (food, water bowls, toys, balls, people, furniture, locations, etc.). All dogs resource guard to some degree, but it can be a problem when the reaction is extreme.
• Predatory Arousal. Predation is technically not reactivity, as predation is an innate and species-appropriate behavior in dogs. This generally looks like barking, lunging, or chasing moving objects, including things with wheels (bicycles, skateboards, scooters), runners, squirrels, birds, cats, etc. But barking and lunging at moving or wheeled objects may not always be predatory; it can also be caused by fear or under socialization.
• Offensive Aggression Reactivity. It can be difficult to differentiate between true aggression and reactivity. Behaviorists, trainers, and ethologists have ongoing discussions and debates about the difference between aggression and reactivity. Any dog can become aggressive if it is cornered or restrained. True aggression generally refers to behavior with a clear intent to harm rather than defensive behavior.

Reactivity is involuntary and unconscious. If you are afraid of spiders and a tarantula lands on your head, you’re not screaming and panicking on purpose to annoy others; you are genuinely scared. Similarly, your reactive dog is operating below cognitive thought. Growling, barking, and lunging are their involuntary stop signals. When your dog has a big reaction, ask yourself, "What issue is my dog addressing with this behavior, and how does this behavior provide relief?"

When your dog is in a panic, there is only one thing you can do: move away from the upsetting thing. Just get the heck out of Dodge. You cannot train and your dog cannot learn when they are in survival mode so don’t even try. This is not a teachable moment. No one can learn when they are freaking out.

To be prepared, it’s important to teach "let’s go" in advance when no triggers are present (watch this video). This will let you create distance or do a quick U-turn without yanking on your dog’s leash, as an upset dog can often become more agitated when leash tension is added. The goal is to teach your dog to willingly move with you and away from the upsetting thing.

Practicing "let’s go" is as much for you as it is for your dog. Many people simply freeze when the barking and lunging starts so "let’s go" needs to be your default behavior, too. Your dog needs you to be calm and have an easy, well-rehearsed get-us-out-of-here plan.

Moving away from an upsetting thing is always preferable to running, barking, or pulling toward the trigger. So even if your dog is freaking out, they still get a reward for moving away. Behavior that is reinforced will be repeated so the goal is to help your dog learn that moving away provides relief and earns a treat. Your dog is also learning that you have their back and won’t make them stand and confront something that terrifies them.

When a cheerful "let’s go" isn’t enough, a practiced "treat magnet" is a very handy skill for moving your dog away from an upsetting thing. This is when you use a treat to lure your dog away from the trigger, breaking the circuit of their fear and/or rage. Again, this technique must be explicitly taught (watch this video) when your dog is not upset. Remember, we always train for the moment, not in the moment!

First, do not punish or correct your dog’s overreaction. While punishment may temporarily interrupt or suppress the behavior, it will not address the root cause. Punishment may also result in long-term negative side effects, ranging from increased fear and aggression to generalized anxiety to redirected aggression, often toward the handler or someone else nearby (more here about the negative effects of shock, prong, and choke collars). Plus, it doesn’t work. Shouting or yelling at your dog is no more effective than repeating their name endlessly or imploring them to "be nice."

Do not ask your dog to sit or lie down or try to make them look at you. Imagine that you're on a hike and see a grizzly bear. It would be ridiculous to ask you to sit or lie down and not look at the bear. When you’re scared, you want to move away while keeping an eye on the bear.

Do not make your dog move closer to the upsetting thing. Repeated exposure to upsetting things will not help your dog get used to them, and forcing a dog to face their fears without any chance to escape can lead to increased fear and anxiety, learned helplessness, and aggression.

Finally, don’t beat yourself up when the unexpected occurs and your dog loses their cool. The walk isn’t ruined, and the day isn’t a loss. Take a breath and keep walking.

After an intense encounter, it can take anywhere from a few minutes to a few days for your dog to return to normal. Initially, their heart rate and blood pressure will come down, but the effects of adrenaline and cortisol can linger much longer. Adrenaline, which triggers the immediate fight-or-flight response, may dissipate relatively quickly. However, cortisol, a stress hormone, can remain in the system for hours or even days. During this time, your dog may appear on edge or more easily startled. It’s important to give them space and comfort as they recover.

Your dog’s reactivity is treatable. Don’t go it alone, though. Work with a qualified, force-free behavior consultant who uses positive reinforcement methods. Beware of anyone who promises a quick fix for reactivity. Quick fixes often rely on punitive methods that may suppress symptoms temporarily but fail to address the underlying issues. True progress requires patience, consistency, and a compassionate approach.

Remember, reactivity is not a reflection of your dog's character or your abilities as a handler. It’s a behavior that can be managed and improved with time, effort, and understanding. Your dog needs your support and guidance to navigate a world that often seems overwhelming to them.

Managing a reactive dog is challenging, but with the right approach, you can help your dog feel safer and more secure. Understanding their behavior and responding appropriately will make a significant difference in your dog's life - and in yours.